For at least a decade, Tayo Okoya has been part of a new crop of Nigerian designers who produce luxury streetwear clothes. He first thought of the idea of his brand, World Black Fantasy (WBF), as a teenager. But when he left secondary school starting in Nigerian was next to impossible.
While studying Animation, Interactive Technology, Video Graphics, and Special Effects at the SAE Institute Dubai, the idea came to him again, and he launched WBFDubai because he was based in Dubai then. These days his brand has cultivated a cult following that includes Davido, DJ Obi and the rapper Ajebutter22.
In this week’s Made in Nigeria, he discusses building a community, dressing Liverpool FC star player Mohamed Salah, and how we can support small creative businesses.
How did you start WBFDubai?
I conceptualised this brand when I was in secondary school. I was in JSS3, and I used to draw comics and everything during my prep time. However, during one prep time, I decided to draw clothes and came up with the name Black Fantasy. Since then I have been pushing it. I tried to start it in Nigeria before going to Dubai for university, but I didn’t have the support I needed, and the environment wasn’t encouraging. People will laugh at your ambitions and dreams, especially when they are seen as being too big.
When I finished school in Dubai, I had grown the brand enough to register the business. The reason it’s called the WBFDubai is because I registered it in Dubai. I have been doing this business in Dubai for four years. It was recognised back home in Nigeria from Dubai, and people started demanding the products at home.
How did you start your Nigerian penetration?
We were retailing at Garmspot, Alara, and Alté 51. This year, we opened our first flagship store. We did the soft launch in October, but we’re doing the flagship launch in December. It’s a community store, and eight artists came together to design and make the space. All we’re trying to do is represent pop culture. Black Fantasy is about creative freedom and expression. We are black, and we deserve a fantasy.
What has running your business primarily from Nigeria been like?
It’s been hectic in Nigeria. For any business in Nigeria to thrive, the owner needs to be available and represent the business. You need to pay attention to details and show up. The owners of the business need to show up. That is the mistake that most business owners are making today. The businesses that are not flourishing aren’t flourishing because the owners are not showing up.
You have to be there and intentional. You have to pay attention to details as small as the smell and ambience of your space. The little details, down to making sure no cobwebs are in the place and the trash is taken out, are very important. For four months, when I was creating the place, I didn’t have a project manager. I did it myself, calling the AC guy. Working with artisans has been a challenge, but we have to be resilient.
What has been a challenge for you with the Nigerian market?
Getting a community to acknowledge and support your work is a challenge. Some people judge a book by its cover. They think “This person has it good,” but they never know the back story. It’s hard to get the attention of the Nigerian community. They don’t really send you. You have to be doing something out of the box that grabs their attention. With everything you’re building, community is key. You can do whatever you want, but a community must back you.
What has the manufacturing process been like since you moved back home?
I have been manufacturing in Dubai for the past four to six years. The reason for that was I started the business in Dubai, and the people that I worked with were the best people I could find to make my stuff. My products are mostly silk, polyester and satin. This is because that is the only product I could manipulate. I could print on the whole garment. But I also chose them for creative freedom. They were the best to give me the creative freedom that made us stand out. We have unique items. Most of our designs are two pieces. We are styling people.
But we’ve collaborated with some made-in-Nigeria brands that we will work with now that we’ve returned home. Our vision is to have flagship stores everywhere globally. We just want to make quality stuff that we’re proud of. We are very intentional about everything, down to our space, to produce global-standard quality.
Why would you say a WBFDubai piece stands out?
Down to the tailoring, colourway, and fit, our products stand out. You can be in a room filled with many people, but you will stand out in a WBF piece because our designs speak for themselves. I studied 3D design in school, and our designs are mostly 3D renders. We do 3D renders and put them on our clothes. It has this hyperrealist look to it that makes it look unique.
Do you design all the pieces?
80% of the designs are made by me. The remaining 20% are collaborations. I may be online and see someone’s work that resonates with me. I tap in, and if they’re willing to collaborate, we work together. One of our best sellers is called Seven Deadly Sins. This is a collaboration between Hubris World and me. He did a 3D of the lady, and I put it on the shirt and designed the “seven deadly sins” at the back of the shirt. It’s our most demanded shirt. Davido wore the shirt.
Many of the designs from WBF have a gothic theme to them. Why is that?
Black Fantasy is the perspective of the world through a black man’s eyes. It’s the way I look at the world as a black man living on earth. I like to touch on topics and express myself through my art. And for my art, rather than have it on the wall, I put it on clothes that people can wear every day. It may come off as gothic, but for us, it’s just art, which can be interpreted differently. There is always a message behind our work. We just want to start conversations with individuals.
High-quality streetwear and skateboard brands like yours seem to have taken off in the country in the past few years. Why is this only just happening?
Many brands came and left. Not everybody stands the test of time. The truth is that our society needs to learn to support each other more: support your friends and support small businesses. The reason I didn’t start in Lagos, as I told you earlier, was because I didn’t have support. About eight years ago, I was in a room with Santi and some other creatives. I had a creative idea, and I wanted to speak to the owner of a space for a popup, but someone just started laughing at me. But Santi pulled me to the corner and said, “Don’t mind them, just keep doing what you do. Not everyone can understand your vision, but I do.”
15 years ago, I made the first geo Snapchat filters of Lagos. I made Surulere, Murtala Muhammed International Airport, Ikoyi. I made many, and people were like, “Who is this person? Their designs are ugly.” But one person who stood up for me was Bizzle Osikoya, who messaged me and said, “Keep doing what you’re doing, bro.” This is the kind of bullying we get in the creative industry.
So when you say, “Why are people not starting their streetwear brand and building their business?” We are in the jungle. I can’t lie; Lagos is the jungle. They can tear you down so that you end up having a normal nine-to-five or doing a job that you don’t want to do. But the rave is in Nigeria now, and we are the dopest black people, so the world will look at our clothes, fashion, nightlife, and music.
I don’t have any support in my business, not even a bank loan. People may assume that this guy has support from his dad. But the only person who has invested in me is my mom.
How do you attract and work with so many young creatives?
I have doings that have been able to speak for itself. Earlier this year, I had a shoot with Mohamed Salah. How did this happen? My business is registered in Dubai. And I’m just guessing here, but maybe it’s because I was featured in Cosmopolitan magazine’s top 10 black-owned businesses in the UAE. So a company reached out to me and asked if I was interested in a shoot for Visa with Mo Salah. I had a meeting with them, and they asked if I had a UK visa, and that was it. They flew me to Manchester, and we did the shoot. I was happy that my work could bring me here.
People can tell that I am passionate and resilient. I may not have the money to pay them, but they believe in me. When I’m talking to people, they’ll see my name and expect big money. But I feed off energy and vibes, and people who resonate with me can tell that the work will go places.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I really believe in the power of manifestation. I don’t limit myself. I just make a document with my goals, and I work towards them. And I remain resilient. Like a rolling stone, I’m not going to stop. When I say world domination, I mean world domination. To take over the world, bro.
